If you want to be more than 20km away in Greece, you will soon have to rely on a kind of provincial road. We have used them extensively. Often they were not too busy and we thought it was fine to cycle there.
However, when we left Kalamata in a westerly direction, it didn't want to get any quieter. When we were tired of it we went into the first turn that looked like something and we quickly mapped out a route through the mountains to the west coast. Mountains again yes! Maximum height something like 700 meters. Total distance to the coast about 65km. We have enough water and an evening meal with us, so we go on the adventure. When we see a "taberna" in a village, we immediately stop for coffee. The toko is full of men who apparently end their Saturday morning there. We are the only ones outside the part of the terrace protected by tarpaulin; With 17 degrees and sun, it is definitely pleasant outside. We are at an altitude of 80 meters..
Immediately after the village we descend again to 30 meters, but then the climbing really starts. Steadily we are getting higher. The road is quite wide and well maintained. Occasionally there is a village, usually just to the side up or down the main road. At a church in a quiet village (all villages in the mountains are quiet) we have lunch. We now know that there is almost always a tap at the churches, so that we can wash our hands after lunch (standard mandarins or orange in this country where these fruits just grow along the road.
It is beginning to dawn on us that we will spend the night in the mountains. We agree to do this for the top, partly because of the temperature, but also to better distribute the heaviness.
Around four o'clock Oscar suddenly stops at a truly idyllic piece of land next to the road: olive trees, grass full of white flowers. Some vegetation and a hill along the road could put us fairly out of sight. Tessel dismounts and inspects the site. She disappears a little lower and a moment later she gestures that and how Oscar can come by bike.
It's a lovely place! Grandiose view into the valley! At night it gets so quiet as you've never heard This is enjoyment!
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